Glacier Peak is a stratovolcano. Elevation: 10541 ft. Prominence 7498 ft, Elevation gain 8200 ft. Located in Snohomish County, Washington. (Wenatchee National Forest).
Glacier Peak is technically and physically less challenging than a Mt Rainier expedition. The weather should be milder than Rainier, so equipment requirements should be slightly less (30-35lb packs). The goal is to maximize the social aspect of team climbing and camping. It will also be a goal to minimize cost. There are different route options that could be considered depending on the abilities of those who show interest in the trip. The hope is to be as flexible as possible with timing depending on the consensus of the group. I am certainly open to an extra day or two to play on the mountain.
Leader: Patrick Murphy
Dates: Start date between June 9 and July 16. Flights in and out of SeaTac Airport. Total Trip 5-7 days.
Prerequisites: Glacier Travel Workshop and two group day hikes.
Participants: 6-8 including the leader and co-leader. (2 rope teams). The co-leader will be chosen out of those who are interested.
Mileage and timing: 3-4 days climbing. 8 Mile approach to base. Starts in a rainforest. About 30 miles round trip.
From Seattle-Tacoma Airport, Washington, 120 miles 2.5 hrs to the trailhead of North Fork Sauk River Trail (south side of the peak). We could save time and money and drive directly to the trailhead where it is possible to camp, or spend the night outside Seattle, get an early start and make it to high camp the next day.
There is usually minimal crevasse danger in June, but it grows with the warm weather, and is dependent of winter snowfall. It would still require full glacier travel protocol through some areas.
Due to the substantial elevation gain, conditions can vary greatly from bottom to top. Rain could be snow higher up. It seems difficult to judge the wind from below. Based on photos, the ground conditions can switch from rock to snow and back again numerous times. Based on trip reports, there is a lot of melt off through the summer. I assume mid-July could be very different from early June. There appears to be greater avalanche danger in the beginning and greater crevasse danger later.